Why won't my garage door close?

Common reasons include: misaligned safety sensors, obstructions in the door path, broken springs, stripped gears in the opener, or issues with the close limit settings. Check the safety sensors first - they should both have steady lights.

Should I repair or replace my garage door?

Consider replacing if: the door is over 15-20 years old, has significant rust or structural damage, panels are severely damaged, or you want to upgrade to an insulated door. Many issues like springs, cables, sensors, and openers are cost-effective to repair.

What do the blinking lights on my garage door opener mean?

Blinking lights indicate error codes. For LiftMaster/Chamberlain: 1 blink = sensor wire issue, 2 blinks = sensor wire short, 3 blinks = door control wire issue, 4 blinks = sensor misalignment, 5 blinks = motor issue. Use our error code lookup tool for specific diagnosis.

How do I calculate what torsion spring I need?

To calculate the correct torsion spring, you need: door height, door width, door weight, track type, and number of springs. The formula involves IPPT (Inch-Pounds Per Turn) = d^4 × E / (10.8 × D × Na). Use our spring calculator for accurate results.

Can I replace a garage door spring myself?

Torsion spring replacement is dangerous and recommended only for trained professionals due to the extreme tension (over 200 lbs of force). Extension springs are safer for DIY but still require proper safety precautions and tools.

Weather Seal Cracked or Damaged

DIY Friendly30-60 minutes

The rubber or vinyl weather seal at the bottom of your garage door wears out over time from sun exposure, temperature extremes, and being driven over. A damaged seal lets in water, cold air, pests, and debris. Replacement is an easy DIY project.

Common Symptoms

Visible cracks or tears in bottom seal
Daylight visible under closed door
Water getting into garage
Cold drafts or hot air entering
Evidence of pest entry

Possible Causes

•Age and UV damage
•Extreme temperature cycles
•Driving over the seal when it extends out
•Rodent damage
•Chemical exposure
•Improper installation

How to Fix It

Identify your seal type

Look at how the seal attaches: T-end (slides into a track), beaded (snaps into groove), or flat (screwed/glued directly). Measure door width.

Purchase replacement seal

Buy a seal that matches your attachment type and door width. Rubber seals last longer than vinyl. Get a few extra inches.

Remove the old seal

For track-mounted seals, slide out from one end. For screwed seals, remove fasteners. Clean the track or mounting surface.

Prepare the track

Apply silicone spray inside the track to make installation easier. Clean out any dirt or debris.

Install new seal

Feed the seal into the track from one side, working it through to the other. For screw-mounted, position and fasten.

Trim and secure ends

Cut excess length. Some seals have end caps or require sealant at the ends to prevent sliding.

When to Call a Professional

•Seal track itself is damaged and needs replacement
•Multiple seals (sides and top) need replacement
•You want a complete weatherproofing assessment

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I replace the bottom seal?

Every 2-5 years depending on climate and use. Inspect annually for cracks and gaps. In harsh climates with extreme temperatures, expect to replace more often.

What's the best type of bottom seal?

Rubber T-end seals are the most durable and effective. They compress well to seal uneven floors and resist cracking better than vinyl.

Should I add a threshold seal too?

If you have an uneven floor or persistent water issues, a floor-mounted threshold provides extra protection. It works with the bottom seal for a double barrier.