Why won't my garage door close?

Common reasons include: misaligned safety sensors, obstructions in the door path, broken springs, stripped gears in the opener, or issues with the close limit settings. Check the safety sensors first - they should both have steady lights.

Should I repair or replace my garage door?

Consider replacing if: the door is over 15-20 years old, has significant rust or structural damage, panels are severely damaged, or you want to upgrade to an insulated door. Many issues like springs, cables, sensors, and openers are cost-effective to repair.

What do the blinking lights on my garage door opener mean?

Blinking lights indicate error codes. For LiftMaster/Chamberlain: 1 blink = sensor wire issue, 2 blinks = sensor wire short, 3 blinks = door control wire issue, 4 blinks = sensor misalignment, 5 blinks = motor issue. Use our error code lookup tool for specific diagnosis.

How do I calculate what torsion spring I need?

To calculate the correct torsion spring, you need: door height, door width, door weight, track type, and number of springs. The formula involves IPPT (Inch-Pounds Per Turn) = d^4 × E / (10.8 × D × Na). Use our spring calculator for accurate results.

Can I replace a garage door spring myself?

Torsion spring replacement is dangerous and recommended only for trained professionals due to the extreme tension (over 200 lbs of force). Extension springs are safer for DIY but still require proper safety precautions and tools.

Door Closes Completely Then Reopens

DIY Friendly10-20 minutes

When your garage door closes all the way to the floor and then immediately reverses and opens, the close-limit switch is set too far. The opener thinks the door hit an obstacle because it traveled past where it should stop. A simple adjustment fixes this.

Common Symptoms

Door touches floor then immediately reverses
Door presses hard against floor before reversing
Problem happens every time, consistently
No sensor lights blinking

Possible Causes

•Close-limit set too far down
•Close force set too high
•Floor has settled or changed
•Weatherstripping creating extra resistance
•Track or roller binding near bottom

How to Fix It

Confirm it's a limit issue

Watch the door close. If it touches the floor, pauses briefly, then reverses—it's almost certainly the close limit.

Locate the limit adjustment screws

Find the two adjustment screws on your opener unit. They're usually on the back or side, labeled 'UP/DOWN' or 'OPEN/CLOSE'.

Adjust the close limit

Turn the DOWN or CLOSE screw counterclockwise about 1/4 turn. This reduces how far the door travels.

Test the door

Run a full close cycle. If it still reverses, make another small adjustment. Repeat until it closes without reversing.

Fine-tune the setting

The door should stop just as the bottom seal touches the floor—not pressing hard and not leaving a gap.

Test the safety reverse

Place a 2x4 flat on the floor and close the door. It should reverse when it contacts the wood. If not, reduce the force setting.

When to Call a Professional

•Adjustments don't solve the problem
•Door is unbalanced or hard to lift manually
•You notice track or roller problems
•Opener makes grinding noises

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between limit and force settings?

Limit controls how far the door travels. Force controls how hard the motor pushes. If the door reverses after touching the floor, it's limit. If it reverses while moving, it's force or obstruction.

Can weather changes cause this problem?

Yes. Concrete floors can settle, and extreme temperatures can cause expansion/contraction. Seasonal adjustment is sometimes necessary.

I adjusted it but now there's a gap at the bottom. Help?

You went too far. Turn the close-limit screw clockwise (opposite direction) in small increments until the door meets the floor without over-pressing.